In all our travels, one place we revisited is Firenze. This small city is full of history, culture, wonderful cuisine, and interesting shops. This is what we love in a travel destination. I almost hate to share this secret, but there is a whole other side of the Ponte Vecchio that most tourists never visit.
Ponte Vecchio
The Ponte Vecchio means the old bridge. This is a dividing line between touristy, crowded Firenze and the Oltrarno. Today’s bridge is known for its jewelry and gold dealers. In 1333, the bridge collapsed from the rising waters of the Arno. After its reconstruction, butchers were the merchants. The waste from their wares was dumped into the river. The odious smell from the meat became unacceptable to the reigning Medici family. After 1565, the butchers were forced to move. Jewelry shops appeared around 1593-1594.
The Oltrarno
By our third visit to Firenze, we learned about the Oltrarno and always stay here. It is less crowded, although during holiday times or the summer, the city is swamped with tourists. Our lodging choice is the Ponte Vecchio Suites. It is a modern hotel with an excellent location.
Ponte Vecchio Suite- Via De‘ Belfredelli, N° 9
https://www.pontevecchiosuites.com
Oltrarno Cultural Sites
Pitti Palace
There are numerous cultural sites that are worth the visit. Immersing yourself in Firenze’s culture is tied to its colorful history. Once you’re at the Oltrarno it is a short walk to the Pitti Palace. This was the former home of the Grand Dukes of Tuscany and had been the domicile of the King of Italy. Today it is a massive museum that displays historical items to modern art. Personally, my favorite is the Costume Gallery.
Boboli Gardens
Behind the Pitti Palace is Boboli Gardens, a beautiful park with botanic gardens. As you walk upon the many paths, you will be treated to historical sculptures that are from the 16th & 18th centuries. If you’re looking for a serene afternoon, bring your picnic and take your time exploring these grounds.
Museo Bardini
This museum has artifacts dating back to the Etruscan and Baroque times. The large offerings include around 3600 artworks. These are paintings, marble statues, pottery, coins, musical instruments, and ancient furnishings.
Churches of Oltrarno
Santa Felicita is the oldest church in the Oltrarno. Its altarpiece, the Disposition of Christ, dates back to 1528. The Church of San Miniato Al Monte stands out for its Florentine Romanesque architecture. Its interior is worth visiting. Please be aware this is an uphill climb, but the views will make the trip more palatable.
https://www.firenze-oltrarno.net/english/arte/santafelicita.php
https://www.san-miniato-al-monte.com
Oltrarno Shopping
There are many stores on this side. What is preferable to me is that many of these shops are small artisan concerns. I will suggest a few that I frequent, but I encourage you to find your own. A must for me whenever I am here is to purchase eyeglasses. Most familiar brand glasses are made in Italy. This means that you can buy a designer pair, and the cost is less than what you pay in the United States. La Coccinella Rossa, Via Della Vigna Nuova.
Gallori Turchi
This has unique antiques. This is owned by the Turchi family. In all of Italy, there are only three licenses to allow the sale of antique firearms. The Turchi’s own two of them. These weapons are for display, not for use. There are other antiquities that are different from any domestic antique shops you have explored. Unlike the eyeglasses, these items are not cheap, but if you’re looking for a splurge, this is your spot. If you stop by, say hello to our friend Gerardo.
Via Maggie 12 R–14 R.
https://www.galloriturchi.com/
Jennifer Tantanelli
I must feed my passion for leather goods whenever I go to Firenze. As we were walking through the Oltrarno, we passed what appeared to be an upscale leather store. Tantanelli is a famous Italian designer, and if you peruse her website, you can see why. On the touristy side of Firenze, there are many leather shops and street vendors. A lot of the products are not of good quality. Many Chinese have migrated outside of Firenze and make subpar leather items. I bought a lovely red leather coat from Tantanelli and I assure you it’s luxurious. Even if you would rather not spend the money, it’s worth the visit.
Jennifer Tantanelli- Piazza de Pitti, 31
Eating on the Oltrarno
To be perfectly honest, I have no personal endorsements for restaurants on the other side. Not because there is nothing special, but quite the opposite. There are many small trattorias and we love to explore various ones. There is no need to find a Michelin–star eatery, unless that’s your passion. We have never come across a poor meal. Many are family–owned and speaking with them always makes for an enlightening culinary experience. I will give you a list of recommendations, but I encourage you to be adventurous.
https://www.tripadvisor.com/Restaurants-g187895-zfn15620692- Florence Tuscany.html
Conclusion
If you are going to Firenze, go to the other side, Oltrarno. You are still close to the touristy sites, but you can find some quiet and peace here. Make your reservations in advance and enjoy this vibrant, classical city. WTH.
