In the summer of 2024, we visited our friends who built their dream home in County Offaly, Ireland. We enjoyed ourselves, so we were happy to return in September 2025. The couple has family that live in the area, and this is how they ended up in non–touristy Ireland. This article is a repost with new information.
They designed the house with a lot of glass. The view is spectacular, surrounded by bogs and the Shannon River. With temps in the mid- sixties, this was a remarkable retreat. We were nowhere near the usual tourist traps, and that was what made County Offaly a wonderful place to explore.
A high point of this trip was getting to meet the local people. My friend’s husband’s family live close to their home. It was so special to talk with his mom. Having a good conversation was a welcome change to scrolling on my phone. I also met two brothers, a wife and their children. The human contact was truly restorative.
Clonmacnoise
On Monday, we went to an ancient monastery ruins named Clonmacnoise, which means meadow of the descendants of nois. This incredible site is only a mile from my friend’s. house. To live so close to a historical location is unimaginable to those of us who come from a country that is only 250 years old. The church of Clonmacnoise was founded by St Ciaran between AD 543 to 549.
Back in St Ciaran’s time, this area was popular because it was a halfway point through the country. The setting is outstanding. There is a cemetery that uses the gravel ridge that is used to cover the grave sites. I found this quite appealing. There are raised bogs, the Shannon River, alongside the property and strewn across the land are remarkable ruins
There were many battles fought on this holy ground. To explain this site, one needs to understand Irish history. Some attacks were from surrounding communities looking to get the power of the church. Since the churches were Catholic in denomination, both the Vikings and English plundered these lands. For over 800 years, there was rebuilding, as well as ongoing battles causing massive destruction. There is much to see at Clonmacnoise the ruins, the museum, and the landscape, https://heritageireland.ie/places-to-visit/clonmacnoise-monastic-site/
Birr Castle Demesne
Birr Castle is another reflection of the history that has occurred in County, Offaly. Originally this was the home of Anglo Normans, built in 1170. Another castle was erected on this land by a Gaelic family, the O’Carrolls who inhabited the area in the late 1500s. They left behind a beautiful Spring Wildflower Meadow and the Carroll Oak that is over 500 years old.
These grounds have amazing features. There are flora installations that are unique in Ireland. The Giant Grove has the largest grove of Redwoods outside of California. The Moon Gate is a traditional architectural element of a Chinese garden. The Birr Castle even received a Guinness Book of World Records for their Box Hedges. They are the tallest at 32 feet and over 300 years old. The River Garden has Magnolia dawsoniana which are considered rare champions.
Besides the castle’s botany, there are other homages to science. There is a Historic Scientific Center, which highlights achievements by the Parsons family, who were residents since 1620. A highlight on the grounds is the Great Telescope was constructed in 1846, and remained the biggest for 70 years. This is not just for a tourist novelty. The 3rd Earl of Rosse discovered the Whirlpool Nebulae, which opened the knowledge of existing galaxies. .A Steam Turbine, invented by the youngest Parsons son in 1884 is also on view.
Not to be missed is Victoria Ferney. This is a stunning waterfall and fountain. The water is fed from a lake that has a herony in the middle of it. The Shell Well which was decorated honoring Marija Guinness with shells that were hers. Then there is the Suspension bridge, built in 1820 which makes it the oldest in Ireland. A nice area for families is the Treehouse Adventure Playground, is the tallest in Ireland. Picnic tables are available to enjoy a nice day with your clan. Another option is the Castle Courtyard Cafe, which has a healthy menu. Birr Castle is open from May through August.
https://birrcastle.com/. Birr Castle
Tullamore D.E.W.
In a town close by Shannonbridge, there is a distillery Tullamore D.E.W. In my past I had a fondness for wine. I visited several wineries both in California, and Europe. I learned a lot about winemaking, some of the processes are similar to whiskey making.
Tullamore’s History
Its whiskey making history goes back to 1829. The town of Tullamore has 13,000 people. The D.E.W. are initials of a great distiller Daniel Edmund Williams.
Distillery Tour
We were first taken to what looked like a lovely living room. Our guide told us about the whiskey’s origins, as we were treated to a cup of Irish coffee. We learned about single malt whiskey. It is made from 100% malt barley that is immersed in water. The malt is milled and mashed through with an addition of hot water. This creates a porridge-like mixture from which they extract liquid.
From the living room we were taken to the copper pot room. Once we saw this step, we were then taken to the oak barrels storing the whiskey. Here we were given a taste of whiskey.
This liquid is combined with yeast then, fermentated.. It is made into a beer wash distilled in copper pots. The process is repeated two to three times. After this the liquid is stored in wood, mostly oak barrels for three years. Finally, the result is single malt whiskey.
We were then brought to a proper tasting room. If you drove to the facility by yourself, then they gave you a tasting doggie bag to take home. Since we took a car service, this was not our concern. We tried three different whiskeys. Although I found the tastes strong, the one I liked was a 12 year old single malt. The tour was very interesting and I highly recommend a visit.
My second visit to non–touristy Ireland was truly a gift. I trust that others would appreciate this trip. Going where throngs don’t go always comes with rewards. Try someplace new, WTH.
https://www.ireland.com/en-us/destinations/county/offaly/
Check out my new stories on my visit to Scotland, on Whatthehellonline.com
